Why this Route? Memorial Contact Us

 


The Mountain - Mount Everest is known as Chomolungma to Tibetans, meaning “Mother Goddess of the Earth” and Sagarmatha to the Sherpa people, or “Goddess of the Sky.” Everest derives its Western name from the British Superintendent General of the Survey of India 1830-1843, Sir George Everest.

The measured height of the Everest massif is 8,848 meters, or 29,029 feet above sea level, and was determined in 1954. On May 5, 1999 the National Geographic Society, using the latest in global positioning and altitude measuring technology, determined the actual height as being 29,035 feet. This new height assessment has not yet been accepted as official, however. As is the norm with Everest, nothing is simple.

The first seven attempts to climb to the summit of Everest, starting with a reconnaissance in 1921, approached the mountain from Tibet, where a route via the North Col and North Ridge seemed possible. Unfortunately, all were unsuccessful. George Mallory, who spearheaded the first three expeditions, lost his life along with his partner, Andrew “Sandy” Irvine, during a failed ascent in 1924.

Unsuccessful attempts continued through 1938, then halted during World War II. By war's end, Tibet had closed its borders and Nepal, previously inaccessible, had done the opposite. Starting in 1951, expeditions from Nepal grew closer and closer to the summit, via the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, over the Geneva Spur to the South Col, and up the Southeast Ridge. Finally, in 1953, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit.

In addition to being the highest, Everest is arguably the most coveted mountain in the world. It is rugged, remote and exotic. The south (Nepal) side was the route first climbed by Hillary and Norgay in 1953. Like Hillary and Norgay, we will be ascending via the South Col Route.

While the South Col route is not a technically difficult climb, the other difficulties of climbing at these extreme altitudes, including hypoxia and unpredictable weather, limit the number of successful summit attempts. Climbing on Everest is physically demanding and requires great reserves of energy and determination.

The Route - Base Camp is approximately one-week’s trek from the town of Lukla, and is located at 17,500 feet, on the glacial moraine below the Khumbu glacier.

The notorious Khumbu Icefall is located between 17,500 feet and 19,500 feet, and is a sea of constant motion with the daily shifting of enormous ice seracs and opening and closing of gigantic crevasses. The Khumbu Icefall is the terminus of the Khumbu glacier, which originates in the snows of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse and flows down the Western Cwm. Ladders are used extensively to bridge crevasses in the Khumbu.

Camp I is located at 19,500 feet, at the top of the Khumbu Icefall.

Between Camp I and Camp II, climbers negotiate the gentle slopes of the Western Cwm. “Cwm”, pronounced “koom”, is the Welsh word for cirque. The Western Cwm runs two miles long and about a half-mile wide (encircled by Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse). George Mallory named it in 1921 on the first reconnaissance of the area.

Camp II is at 21,000 feet. As climbers leave Camp II, they move toward the Lhotse face (Lhotse, at 27,920 feet, borders Everest).

Camp III is at 23,500 feet. To reach Camp III, climbers must negotiate the Lhotse Face. Though not very technically difficult, it is a steep, shiny, icy wall; one slip here can mean death, and indeed many have lost their lives through just such mishaps.  Climbing this section of ice demands skill, stamina and concentration.

Between Camp III and Camp IV, climbers negotiate the Yellow Band at 25,000 feet, on the Lhotse Face en route to the South Col. The Yellow Band is a distinct band of sandstone, which was once below sea level! Climbers then negotiate the Geneva Spur, an anvil-shaped section of black rock. The Geneva Spur is the last major obstacle before Camp IV, high camp, at the South Col.

Camp IV is at 26,300 feet (8,000 meters) on the South Col. The South Col is a broad, wind-swept saddle between Everest and the neighboring peak of Lhotse. This will be a climber’s first overnight stay in the “Death Zone.”  The so-called Death Zone is above 26,000 feet, and it is generally at this point that the human body loses its ability to continue acclimating to altitude. Team members will be using oxygen to sleep and climb at this altitude and above. Camp IV is the final major camp for the summit push.  It is at this camp that climbers will make their final preparations.  Camp IV is also a haven for worn-out climbers on their exhausting descent from summit attempts, successful and otherwise.

Climbers begin their summit push from Camp IV at approximately 11:00 p.m. at night, and climb through the night toward Everest’s Southeast Ridge. Climbers reach the Southeast Ridge at 27,700 feet at a place known as the Balcony. At this platform, climbers rest and watch the dawn rise to illuminate the mountain ranges to the east. From the Balcony, climbers push on to the South Summit, a small dome of snow at 28,700 feet. From here, climbers can see the final obstacles ahead: the Cornice Ridge, the Hillary Step, and the final summit ridge.

The Cornice Ridge is a 400-foot long horizontal traverse of rock and snow, and is a very intimidating section of the climb. A misstep to the right would send a climber tumbling down the 10,000 foot Kangshung Face. A misstep to the right would bring the same result down the 8,000 foot Southwest Face.

The famous Hillary Step is a 40-foot snow, ice and rock section that is climbed with fixed ropes. It often becomes a bottleneck, as only one climber can ascend or descend at a time.  Although the Hillary Step wouldn’t present much of a challenge for an experienced climber at a much lower altitude, at 28,800 feet on Everest it is considered the most technically challenging aspect of the climb.

The summit is at 29,029 feet and the top of the world. The summit is generally covered with various prayer flags, photographs of family members, prayer packets, and the like. The picnic table-sized summit affords views of the Tibetan Plateau to the north, and the great Himalayan peaks of Kanchenjunga to the east, Makalu to the southeast, and Cho Oyu to the west. Here, climbers take pictures, gain their composure, briefly enjoy the view, and then begin the long descent to Camp IV.